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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.